October 23, 2024
Are Upcoming Brands More Influential Than Fashion Houses
The grip that fashions houses have had on the industry are is loosening to make room for upcoming brands
Prada sweater, $2,350, Prada.com, vintage Ralph Lauren pants, price upon request, ChickeesVintage.com, and W.Kleinberg belt, $175, WKleinberg.com.

When it comes to innovation in fashion, the landscape is shifting faster than ever. While established fashion houses have long held the crown for luxury and trendsetting, a wave of upcoming brands is breaking the mold with fresh creativity. Is it possible that these emerging labels are outshining traditional powerhouses?

Disrupting Tradition

For decades, the major players in fashion ruled with an iron fist—dictating trends from runways to high streets. Yet recent years have seen smaller brands such as Telfar, Fear of God, and Rhude enter the scene with designs that reflect the energy of youth culture. The landscape is shifting so fast that even these brands are becoming "old news." The rise of TikTok fashion is allowing small brand owners to penetrate the market with influence like never before.

Dasyori, emerging brand dominating the upcycled sportswear niche
Showroom Fittings.

Take Telfar, for example. The brand’s “Not for you, for everyone” mantra represents a democratized approach to luxury, challenging the exclusivity that Prada and Louis Vuitton are built on. Similarly, Fear of God redefines streetwear, merging high fashion with minimalism—something even the fashion titans are beginning to mimic. For Gen Z, the majority of their knowledge of new pieces comes from their favorite rapper or influencer wearing it in a viral video. Fashion magazines are seen less as the standard and more as just one of many opinions.

The new shift in fashion has brought back something long gone—authenticity. Upcoming creatives and style fiends don’t care about what’s on the runway or what Farfetch is promoting. They care about what resonates with them, regardless of brand status. If emerging artists like Phreshboyswag can singlehandedly revive a trend that’s been dead for over a decade, then anything is possible.

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604service - Seoul based label

Digital Domination and the Power of Social Media

Upcoming brands know how to utilize social media. Platforms like Instagram and TikTok have become the catapults for success, allowing new designers to bypass traditional fashion gatekeepers like the "almighty Vogue." For instance, Pyer Moss and A-Cold-Wall gained prominence through direct interaction with their audiences, promoting collections in real time and drawing followers into their creative process. While heritage brands still rely on glitzy runway shows and luxury magazines for exposure, the new wave of designers engages with their consumer base in a much more dynamic and interactive way. Jaded London utilizes a heavy TikTok presence and an unconventional approach to displaying runway fits in everyday settings.

In contrast, brands under the LVMH umbrella, while dominant in terms of reach, have been slower to adapt. They still carry an air of exclusivity that limits engagement, favoring an aura of elitism, which isn’t as relatable in today’s digital-forward world—especially since the younger generation is more interested in luxury goods than ever before.

RAGA MALAK - Beruit based label built by Arabic creatives

Fashion’s New Blueprint: Sustainability & Authenticity

Sustainability is no longer just a buzzword—it’s a mandate. Brands today must weave eco-friendly practices into their production, focusing on quality, craftsmanship, and materials that minimize harm to the environment. Upcoming labels can embed these values from the start, whereas legacy houses struggle to retrofit these principles without diluting their heritage or craftsmanship. Emerging brands like Prototypes are building pieces from discarded garments, reviving dead clothing and turning it into coveted fashion—an approach that’s akin to manufacturing alchemy.

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March 2022 | Long read
RAGA MALAK - Beruit based label built by Arabic creatives

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